原文：HTTP://WWW.THEKINSKY.COM/CONVERSATIONS/AN-INTERVIEW-WITH-HED-MAYNER/
AN INTERVIEW WITH HED MAYNER
February 18th, 2015
By Filep Motwary
翻译：掷布为衣
Hed Mayner
Hed Mayner 在以色列北部森林的一个名叫Amuka的村庄里长大。从16岁开始，他就自己製作裁片，缝纫和製衣。他曾经就读于以色列国立的艺术与设计学院 Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design，后来又搬去巴黎，进入着名的法国巴黎时尚学院 Institut Francais De La Mode学习。巴黎的经历丰富了Mayner 的美学观。。。
Growing up in Amuka, a village in the forests in the north of Israel, Hed Mayner started sewing from the age of 16, making his own patterns and garmants. He later studied at the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design, before moving to Paris to enroll at the prestigious Institut Francais De La Mode. Paris enriched Mayner’s aesthetics…
FM: 一切是如何开始的？
HM: 最开始的时候，我为一个裁缝工作，后来是一个家具设计师。那以后，我在耶路撒冷学习了四年，然后搬到巴黎。我的学习和研究始于巴黎，但在很早的阶段就离开了那里。离开学校后，我觉得自己应该走上一条独立的道路，所以我们搬回了耶路撒冷。在耶路撒冷，我有一种感觉，那里就是世界的中心。在那里，我生活在各种各样让我感兴趣的想法中：脆弱，传统，权力和贵族。这些想法推动着我，让我开始创作。
FM: How did everything start for you?
HM: At the beginning I worked for a tailor, Then for a furniture designer, Then studied for four years in Jerusalem, Then moved to Paris. I started my studies there but left at an early stage. After leaving school I felt that I should go on an independent way, so we moved to Jerusalem, where I had the feeling that its the center of the world. In Jerusalem I was living amongst many different ideas that interested me; the idea of vulnerability, tradition, power and nobility. That’s what pushed me to start.
FM：为什幺一开始你就选择了时尚作为你的专业。
HM：我赞同这样的观点，那就是，一个时装设计师是开放的，信息从他川流而过。他观察，感受但并不做太多判断。他只是传递一定的情感，确认一定的时刻。我认为时尚设计需要灵活，需要对你的环境有觉察心。
FM: Why you have chosen fashion as your profession in the first place.
HM: I related to the idea that a fashion designer is open and information is passing through him, he looks, feels and doesn’t judge too much, just transfer a certain emotion, identifies a moment. I think it’s about being flexible and attentive to your surroundings.
FM：你是怎幺塑造Hed Mayner这个角色的，你为之着装的这个男士？
HM：在我的系列中，有注重流动性的单品，也有注重结构的单品，它们之间有一定的张力。奢侈的概念在我的生活经历中并不存在。我们周围的环境更多等同于制服 - 它可以是军事外套或犹太教正统剪裁。这样的剪裁从来没有真正完美过，但其中总有些东西被提炼，而且看起来很高贵。身份地位并不是这些衣服强调的。犹太裁剪更多的是包裹身体，而不是塑造它。我觉得，让当今的男人穿宽鬆的衣服是一个好想法，就像穿着你大哥的外套一样，它让你看起来既有力量又脆弱。
FM: How did you form the Hed Mayner hero, the man you dress?
HM: In my collections there is a tension between fluid pieces and structured pieces. The idea of luxury does not exist from where I come from, the surroundings we have is more equal to uniforms – it can be military outwear or the Jewish orthodox tailoring. This tailoring is never really perfect but still something is refined and appears noble. Status does not exist in these clothes. The Jewish tailoring is more about wrapping the body rather than shaping it. I find it a great proposal for men today the over-sized proportion make you look like you are wearing your big brothers jacket- it gives strength and vulnerability at the same time.
FM：Hed Mayner是一个什幺样的人？
HM：我们试图为一个有对比个性的人着装。我们希望保持开放的思路，并允许不同的解释。每个人穿Hed Mayner的人都会带有一定的情感。我不认为当今的人们希望被简单地定义。
FM: Who is this man ?
HM: The work we do is trying to fit a contrasted personality. We like to keep the idea of openness and allow for different interpretations. Each person who wears the clothes will relate to a certain emotion. I don’t think people want to be defined so easily today.
FM：你觉得时尚正在发生变化吗？往哪个方向？
HM：我觉得未来如何定义一个人的身份特性将会变得关键而复杂。归属感，会变得非常重要。总的来说，我觉得在不久的将来在市场上仍然会有很多的产品，但人们消费的方式会不同于几年前。人们对有独特性的产品的需求将增长。而非常有可能的是，这种需求将由年轻的新品牌来满足。
FM: Do you feel fashion is changing? Towards which direction?
HM: I feel that questions of Identity will become critical and complex for us in the future. The desire to belong to something will become very important. In general I feel that in the near future there will still be a lot of products in the market, but the way people will consume them is going to be different than it was a few years ago. The need for unique items will grow and it is very possible that it will be the young labels to offer them.
FM：什幺是一个年轻的设计师必须知道的最重要的事情？
HM：我不知道，我还在犯可能犯的所有的错误。
FM:What is the most important thing a young designer must know?
HM: I don’t know, I still make every possible mistake.
FM：在开创自己的品牌之前，你曾为其他的设计师工作过吗？
HM：我主要是与工匠们合作。我从来没有为着名的时装品牌工作过。我为定制西装的裁缝工作过，也为家具设计师工作过，还有一个鞋匠。
FM: Have worked for other designers before you launched your own collection?
HM: I was mainly working with craftsmen. I never worked for big fashion house, I was working with a tailor who was making made to measure suits and then I was working for a furniture designer and also shoemaker.
FM：这些经历如何帮助到你？
HM：帮助很大，其中有些经历是对我非常珍贵，他们曾经是我很好的老师。
FM: How did it help you?
HM: It helped me a lot, some of them are very precious to me, they’ve been good teachers.
FM：未来短期计划是什幺？
HM：在不久的将来，我们会开始SS16的设计。与此同时，我们正在我FW完成FW15/16的订单。（掷布为衣：此採访作于2015年二月。现在，SS2016的设计已经完成。见附录）
FM:What shall we expect from you in the near future?
HM: For the near future we are planning to start working on our SS 16. At the same time we are preparing the orders for the FW 15/16 collection.
FM：在哪里可以买到你的FW15/16系列？
HM：New World Order (New York) ， Odd (New york) ，Cement (Tokyo) ，Nomad (Osaka)
FM: Where is your FW15 collection available?
HM: It will be available at: New World Order (New York) Odd (New york) Cement (Tokyo) Nomad (Osaka)
附：HED MAYNER SS 2016
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